Zest Magazine, July/August 1997

Zest for Life - Learn to Surf

‘Quick, quick, Sarah, start paddling!’ someone shouted at me.  ‘There’s a wave!’ I clambered onto my surfboard and held on tight.  Suddenly, the sea shot me forward and, a split second later, I was hurtling towards the beach at high speed, the sound of the wave crashing all around me.  I tried to stand by my knees gave way and I tumbled into the water.  As I came up for air, I felt totally exhilarated – I’d survived my first go at surfing.

Unless you’ve tried it, it’s hard to believe that something so simple – just you, a surfboard and the sea – can be so exciting and so addictive.  Each time I recovered from tone wave, I’d eagerly wade back out to sea, adrenaline pumping at the mere thought of the next one.

I was on a weekend beginners’ surfing course with Surf South West at Croyde Bay, North Devon, on of Britain’s best surfing beaches.  The owners of the school, Darren Burrett and Justin Hillyer, are enthusiastic experienced instructors.  Don’t even consider learning to surf on your own: knowing Darren and Justin were on the lookout for unexpected currents or too-close fellow surfers gave me a real sense of security.  And, when they said I’d be standing on my board by the end of the weekend, I believed them.

A wetsuit (and special gloves and boots, if it isn’t high summer) are a must for surfing in Britain.  And we beginners used special foam surfboards that are longer and sturdier than the fibreglass type.  A ‘leash’ attached to the end of the board ties round your ankle and stops your board being swept away by the waves when you fall off – and you will!

Before we entered the water, Darren explained basic safety points (such as protecting your head if you fall) and showed us the correct surfing position.  You should start lying quite far back on your board, with the tips of your toes resting on the end.  As a wave approaches, you paddle furiously, trying to judge where to ‘catch’ it.  Then as you feel the power of the wave increase behind you, you grip the board on both sides and, keeping your knees relaxed and feet about a foot apart, and using your arms to balance – not easy to master!

But, after a weekend of falls and nosedives, I was almost standing every couple of waves, just as I’d been promised.  I can’t wait for the next time!